In response to the fast fashion and cheap giant Hennes & Mauritz (H & M) and Inditex (Zara), of Berlin designers recycle used clothing, convinced that the recovery of waste may apply to ready- to wear.
The floor of the workshop Daniel Kroh, near Berlin Central Station, is littered with orange overalls and jackets fluorescent strip worn by German railway.
Skinned, these workwear are the raw material of this stylist who dyed and scrap to make costumes for men. In a garment, “I seek the authentic record,” he explains to summarize his work.
Each piece is unique. The opposite of a juggernaut Zara fashion as to the origin of the movement called “fast fashion” produce a garment quickly and cheaply.
Daniel Kroh as other Berlin designers specialized in the valuation of textile waste to manufacture high quality products. He can get “blue” work pants and carpenters, who would eventually burned to make new clothes tailor, sold to a customer chico-dandy.
His approach is part of the fight against waste and overconsumption.
Basically, these designers have invented nothing. “My mother and my grandmother (…) were new pieces with skirts or dress coats overlap” for the sake of economy, says Carla Cixi Italian designer installed five years in Berlin.
“But now? Clothing from missing a button or zipper is broken we throw,” adds Cecilia Palmer. This designer fashion thirty anime parties where everyone brings clothes that he does not want and can trade them against others. Participants can also make new clothes thanks to sewing machines it provides.
The underlying idea of the project? “Consume differently,” she says denouncing tons of clothing that land each year in the garbage.
These designers are in rebellion against the “disposable undermines”. “It is a scandal what some brands that sell clothes that will be worn two or three times” because then they are already outdated, denounced Carla Cixi, whose creations crochet require hours of work.
Shopping at HM, “is like going to fast food to eat all hamburgers. It feels wrong then,” said Daniel Kroh, who “these clothes have no soul.”
From Athens to the north of Norway, European youth has the same slim jeans produced in Bangladesh or Cambodia million copies and sold at unbeatable prices. A fashion that pleases everyone but that “it ends up being all the same,” complained Carla Cixi.
Each jackets or suits that Daniel Kroh factory includes explanations of its origin.
Eugenie Schmidt and Mariko Takahashi, who created their own recycled clothing label, also decided to “tell the story” dresses or pants made in a workshop in the heart of the former East Berlin.
“More a garment is worn, the longer it contains part of the history of the person wearing it,” said Eugenie Schmidt, winning one wearing a pink creation partially transparent and the sleeves are permanently stained. “These are traces of paint” as used sweatshirt belonged to a painter …
But the recycled clothing, which require a long process, remain unaffordable for most people. A jacket can happily exceed 400 euros.
These designers recognize that this is still a niche. They denounce all the same prices charged by chains of ready-to-wear with T-shirts sometimes sold 5 euros.
Last landed in this world of disposable clothing, Irish chain Primark attracts – without advertising – tens of thousands of people lured by the very low prices at each store opening in Europe. In Berlin, as elsewhere, the ladies come out with bags full arms. The low prices are fueling the controversy over the manufacturing conditions.
Irony of history: in Eugenie Schmidt and Mariko Takahashi, a large proportion of recycled clothes from just signs like H & M and Zara …
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